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They just may be the secret to amazing-looking skin.
Growth factors are one of those often-buzzed about ingredients that are on the tip of everyone’s tongue—and on the packaging of many bottles—but still have some mystery surrounding them. What are they, exactly, and where do they come from? More importantly, what can they actually do for your skin? “Growth factors are naturally-occuring substances that regulate various cellular processes, including growth, proliferation, and differentiation. They are crucial for tissue development, wound healing, and maintaining the overall health and function of cells,” explains Robyn Gmyrek, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. (It also bears mentioning that they can be derived from either human cells or plants.) “When applied topically, growth factor serums may help support collagen production, improve skin elasticity, enhance the skin’s natural repair processes, and minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They can also contribute to hydration and overall skin rejuvenation,” Gmyrek explains. Long story short, they’re a great anti-aging ingredient, targeting a variety of the things that can make us look older than we are. Their other big boon: Unlike other anti-aging ingredients (retinoids, we’re looking at you), growth factors are typically very well-tolerated and unlikely to cause irritation.
A multi-tasking, youth-boosting ingredient that won’t wreak havoc on your skin? Yes, please. However, it is important to note that not all growth factor serums are created equal, Gmyrek points out, and that specific benefits can depend on the overall formulation of the product as well as the particular growth factors being used. So to make your skincare shopping easier, we rounded up some of the best options out there.
Best Overall: Dr. Diamond’s Metacine Instafacial Collection
What We Like
What We Don’t Like
Dr. Jason Diamond is the plastic surgeon to some of the biggest stars out there; the Kardashians and Chrissy Teigen are only a few of his elite patients. He’s well-known for his Diamond InstaFacial, which uses PRP (platelet-rich plasma) derived from your blood along with microneedling and laser. Consider this the at-home version of that in-office treatment, but no blood drawing or devices required. This two-step system consists of a plasma (more of a gel-like, lightweight serum) which contains bioidentical human growth factors that’s meant to be layered under an emulsion. More of a cream, this contains a time-released retinoid plus peptides. The results? Smoother, firmer, more radiant skin. Byrdie’s associate editorial director, commerce, Jill Di Donato is a super-fan, and swears by the combination treatment for smoothing out texture issues and delivering cushiony skin. “My skin literally drinks it up, that’s how well it absorbs. I’ve been using it daily for six weeks and my skin is more firm and bouncy.”
Active Ingredients: Bioidentical human growth factors, peptides, retinoid | Benefits: Improves laxity, smoothness, radiance | Cruelty-Free: Unknown
Price at time of publish: $550
Runner-Up, Best Overall: Skin Medica TNS Advanced+ Serum
What We Like
What We Don’t Like
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Growth factors come from human cells, which may be off-putting to some
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Pump can be a bit finicky
This cult-classic certainly isn’t the new kid on the block, but it’s a long beloved staple for a reason; in fact, it was one of the first products to put topical growth factors on the map. It’s often-recommended by dermatologists, Gmyrek included. “This serum is well-regarded for its combination of growth factors, antioxidants, and peptides. It aims to improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone,” she says.
Active Ingredients: Growth factor blend, peptides, antioxidants | Benefits: Improves the look of wrinkles and sagging skin | Cruelty-Free: No
Price at time of publish: $295
Best with Retinol: Perricone MD Growth Factor Firming Lifting Serum
What We Like
What We Don’t Like
A growth factor that helps promote collagen production and elasticity is further enhanced by the addition of retinol in this formula. The latter helps do the same thing, although it also helps to improve exfoliation on the surface of the skin, giving you benefits at every level. Also noteworthy: The addition of an eggshell membrane (yes, from an egg) that works to bolster the skin barrier to help keep moisture locked in.
Active Ingredients: Polaymine growth factor, retinol, eggshell membrane | Benefits: Improves firmness, tone, and radiance | Cruelty-Free: Yes
Price at time of publish: $129
Related: The 19 Best Retinol Serums of 2023
Best K-Beauty: Maskad Anti-Aging Serum
What We Like
What We Don’t Like
There are not one, not two, but three different types of growth factors to be found in this Korean-made serum. There’s EGF, KGF, and BGF, all of which work slightly differently and in different layers of the skin but have a synergistic effect when it comes to leaving your complexion glowier and more hydrated, as well as smoother and plumper, too.
Active Ingredients: EGF, KGF, BGF growth factors, peptides | Benefits: Improves fine lines, tone, and sagging | Cruelty-Free: Yes
Price at time of publish: $125
Best Budget: The Inkey List 15% Vitamin C and EGF Brightening Serum
What We Like
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Very affordable
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Great for all skin types
What We Don’t Like
As a general rule of thumb, growth factor serums aren’t cheap, making this one all the more noteworthy. It has a 1% concentration of an epidermal growth factor (or EGF) along with 15% of ascorbyl glucoside, a form of vitamin C. While it’s not as intense as l-ascorbic acid, it’s still a great antioxidant and choice for brightening skin, not to mention is much less likely to cause any irritation or stinging than the stronger stuff.
Active Ingredients: EGF, ascorbyl glucoside | Benefits: Brightens and tightens skin | Cruelty-Free: Yes
Price at time of publish: $16
Related: The 14 Best Drugstore Retinol Creams of 2023
Best for Sensitive Skin: Neocutis Bio Serum Firm Rejuvenating Growth Factor and Peptide Treatment
What We Like
What We Don’t Like
Human growth factors are paired with a variety of other hard-hitting ingredients in this serum, namely things such as hydrating hyaluronic acid, moisture-infusing glycerin, and anti-aging peptides. It’s another one of Gmyrek’s recommendations: “Known for its proprietary growth factor blend, this serum is designed to support collagen production and improve the overall texture and elasticity of the skin,” she says.
Active Ingredients: Human growth factors, peptides, sodium hyaluronate | Benefits: Improves fine lines, texture, and firmness; hydrates, brightens | Cruelty-Free: Yes
Price at time of publish: $275
Best Peptide-Alternative: Dr. Babor EGF Growth Factor Concentrate
What We Like
What We Don’t Like
Rather than containing actual growth factors, this instead relies on biomimetic peptides that work by stimulating the growth factors naturally found in your skin. Okay, so it’s not quite as ideal as the real thing, but the formula is a great pick for those who are squeamish about using human-derived growth factors, as the serum is completely vegan. It’s also slightly less expensive than many others, and is great for helping to both firm and smooth the skin.
Active Ingredients: Biomemetic peptides | Benefits: Firms and smooths | Cruelty-Free: Yes
Price at time of publish: $160
Best Hydrating: Epi.Logic Master Plan Collagen Renew Growth Factor Serum
What We Like
What We Don’t Like
All growth factor serums can help with skin hydration to a certain extent, but this one really focuses on the task. Along with the growth factor, there’s also hyaluronic acid in the mix, a humectant that attracts water to and traps it in the skin. A snow mushroom also helps to lock in moisture, while shitake mushroom both plumps and brightens.
Active Ingredients: Growth factors, hyaluronic acid | Benefits: Boosts elasticity and firmness, hydrates | Cruelty-Free: Yes
Price at time of publish: $230
Related: The 19 Best Wrinkle Creams of 2023
Best Plant-Based: BioEffect EGF Plumping and Firming Serum
What We Like
What We Don’t Like
For those seeking plant-derived growth factors, this pick can’t be beat. It relies on a growth factor that comes from barley, which helps both boost collagen production and hydration, too. To that point, it’s been clinically-proven to improve skin density and thickness, as well as reduce wrinkles. Also nice: It contains just seven ingredients total and you only need to use a few drops for a complete application.
Active Ingredients: Barley-derived growth factors | Benefits: Plumps and firms | Cruelty-Free: No
Price at time of publish: $169
Best with Exomes: Elevai Enfinity Rejuvenating Serum
What We Like
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Uses high-quality exosomes
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Combines them with other powerful ingredients, such as vitamin C and hyaluronic acid
What We Don’t Like
Growth factors have been around for awhile, but exosomes in skincare are poised to be the new hot trend. Think of them kind of like a cousin to growth factors; they’re nanoparticles released by cells that contain within them their own lipids, proteins, growth factors and more. They work by communicating between cells, and are largely responsible for helping to stimulate and mimic the body’s natural healing response, which is what makes them so ideal when it comes to skin regeneration. Exosomes are the star of the show here, alongside growth factors, peptides, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid. The end result? A serum that is ideal for overall skin rejuvenation.
Active Ingredients: Exosomes, growth factors, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C | Benefits: Hydrates, brightens, promotes skin elasticity | Cruelty-Free: Yes
Price at time of publish: $299
Robyn Gmyrek, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Union Derm in New York City specializing in both cosmetic and general dermatology.
What to Look For in a Growth-Factor Serum
The Concentration of Growth Factors
As is the case with any other active ingredient, you’ll want to make sure you’re getting the growth factor in a high enough concentration for it to actually do something. Gmyrek suggests checking to see if the product you’re considering discloses the concentration; if not, look for it listed high up on the ingredient list, as it is in the SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum and Elevai Enfinity Rejuvenating Serum. (FYI, you’ll often see growth factors listed as ‘human stem cell conditioned media.’)
Other Skin Actives
“Look for other beneficial ingredients that complement the action of growth factors,” suggest Gmyrek. “These may include antioxidants, peptides, hyaluronic acid, vitamins, and other nourishing compounds that promote overall skin health, hydration, and protection against environmental damage.” The winning Neocutis Bio Serum Firm is one such product that fits the bill.
Pairs Well With Routine
You’ll want a serum that can easily be worked into your existing routine. Most of the products in this list are meant to be used morning and night, and, as with any serum, be sure to apply it before moisturizer. That being said, if you are using one that also contains antioxidants or hyaluronic acid, you can likely swap it in place of a straight-up antioxidant or hydrating serum.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does a growth factor serum do?
“A growth factor serum can help stimulate collagen production, improve skin texture, reduce wrinkles, and promote a more youthful appearance,” says Gmryek. “If you have skin damage from environmental factors, such as sun exposure, or acne, it may help repair and regenerate the damaged tissue since growth factors aid in the healing process. They improve skin tone and texture, and reduce the appearance of scars,” she explains.
Are growth factor serums better than retinol?
It’s not necessarily that one is better than the other, per se, but rather that there are some differences between the two. While they both have similar anti-aging effects, particularly as it pertains to boosting collagen production to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, retinoids (including retinol) increase skin cell turnover whereas growth factors help stimulate the natural healing response. Finally, growth factors tend to be generally well-tolerated by all skin types, including sensitive, and you don’t have to worry about some of the irksome side effects that often come with retinol, Gmyrek notes.
Should I use a growth factor serum after cosmetic procedures?
It can be a good idea to do so, largely since they help stimulate the healing process: “After a cosmetic procedure, such as laser resurfacing, microneedling, or chemical peels, using growth factor serums can help speed up the recovery time and improve the overall healing of the skin,” says Gmyrek. Some growth factors also have anti-inflammatory properties, she adds. The one big caveat? This depends on the specific procedure and the recommendations of your doctor, Gmryek cautions. It’s always best to discuss any products you plan on using afterward ahead of time.
Why Trust Byrdie
Byrdie contributor Melanie Rud has over a decade of experience in the beauty industry, writing for some of the biggest magazines and websites out there. She has recently gotten on board with the growth factor trend, and has noticed that the ingredients do make a huge difference in her skin.
